Vintage Cocktails: The
Pegu
You’ve probably never heard of the Pegu. Unless you were kicking around
Rangoon back in the 1920’s, or bellying up to the bar at London’s
Savoy Hotel in the 1930’s, there’s no reason you should have.
Too bad, too, for the Pegu is one of the finest aperitifs ever created.
The Savoy Cocktail Book of 1930, a collection of drink recipes from the
Savoy Hotel’s legendary bartender Harry Craddock, calls it “The
Pegu Club Cocktail.” Harry describes it as “the favourite cocktail
of the Pegu Club, Burma, and one that has traveled, and is asked for, round
the world.”
Indeed, the Pegu was the signature drink at Burma’s Pegu Club, an
elegant oasis for army officers and foreign travelers. The club was either
located in the small town of Pegu, a good fifty miles outside of Rangoon,
or in Rangoon proper, depending on which accounts you read. Rudyard Kipling
wrote about his visits to the club between March and September 1889, and
described it as a place that “seemed to be full of men on their way
up or down.” Kipling refers to the club as being in Rangoon, but perhaps
Greater Rangoon circa 1889 extended as far as the little town of Pegu. At
any rate, there seems to be no record of when the Pegu cocktail was created,
though it must have been in existence in the 1920’s if Craddock had
calls for it at the Savoy in 1930. World War II put an end to the Pegu Club,
unfortunately, and the delightful Pegu Club Cocktail was temporarily forgotten.
Several recently published cocktail cookbooks have helped remind people
of the Pegu’s charms, thank goodness. Unfortunately, you probably
won’t find a bartender who’s ever heard of it. That’s
why we insist you try making one for yourself at home. Here’s how:
In a shaker, combine 1 1/2 ounces of gin, 1/2 ounce Cointreau, 3/4 ounce
freshly squeezed lime juice, and two dashes of Angostura bitters. Add plenty
of ice and shake until your hands are painfully stuck to the shaker, then
strain the icy libation into a chilled cocktail glass.
Now imagine yourself in need of refreshment after a hot afternoon in the
Burmese sun, and prepare your palate for a wonderfully brisk and bracing
sensation. The Pegu’s taste, admittedly quite a sophisticated one,
is reminiscent of an invigorating bitter-grapefruit sorbet. Not for the
timid or faint of heart, the Pegu, a sublime combination of bitter, sweet,
and sour, is without question one of the most delectable and inspiring aperitifs
you’ll ever have the pleasure to know. |
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